The Return of Phoebe Philo
Images courtesy of phoebephilo.com
Fashion’s doyenne of quiet luxury returns after a long absence. How do we interpret her new eponymous brand?
After leaving the spotlight for six years, British designer Phoebe Philo is officially back in fashion with the debut of her eponymous label backed by LVMH. Die-hard fans—also known as Philophiles—have been rabidly waiting (and saving up) for Philo’s namesake brand ever since the announcement was made in 2021. In late October, the designer returned to the virtual world with the launch of the designer’s website anchored in her artfully honed aesthetic: grainy images of languidly-posed models, sprawled legs, and structured garments. With Philo’s track record, what do we make of her comeback?
The Philo Woman
Starting out as a Central Saint Martins graduate, Philo worked closely with Stella McCartney at Chloé as an assistant. Eventually, Philo took up the role of creative director from 2001 to 2006 and transformed Chloé into a commercial success. The brand, revitalised with a carefree feminine spirit, saw the rise of it-bags with Philo's padlock-embellished ‘Paddington’ and ‘Edith’ satchel. In retrospect, this early stage of Philo's career solidified her approach to fashion: the woman comes first before the clothes, and the clothes speak for themselves. This ethos, emphasising practicality and fuss-free comfort, carried forward into Philo’s vision for Céline from 2008 to 2018.
Under her helm, the dust-gathering French heritage brand became known for offering clothes that women actually wanted. Céline won the hearts of many Philophiles including myself for how it made everyday utilitarianism desirable, intellectual, and sexy regardless of age. Collections were punctuated with sensuality and classiness, flaunting sharp tailoring. From Yves Klein dresses to Phantom ‘Luggage’ Totes, Philo proved that a minimalist wardrobe has staying power. Workwear could double up as smart casual and come in a riot of colours. Think pale yellow jumpsuits, khaki trenches, and multi-coloured foulard silk shirts. So influential was Philo’s design language that it trickled down to her pupils: Daniel Lee, Matthieu Blazy, and Peter Do. A look through their runways in recent years shows how these kindred spirits are adapting and upholding Philo’s aesthetic philosophy.
Images courtesy of phoebephilo.com
One Step Ahead, Three Steps Back
Given Philo’s reputation, it’s unsurprising to see that her tailored trousers, heeled loafers, and accessories sold out when Philo’s website went live. Within a few hours, fashion aficionados snapped up most of the 150 pieces available. Philo’s offerings, however, gave the impression that she’s playing it safe with familiar silhouettes and a neutral palette. Even though her asymmetric scarf-tops, square-toed pumps, and high-neck sweaters are chic, they are hard to buy into—much less fall in love with—when they’re exorbitantly priced. It’s hard to justify caving in for a piece of Philo’s 'quiet luxury' when the only way to judge it is through an image online. The only way to wear Phoebe Philo now is whether or not you can afford to drop several thousands on a seemingly capacious leather tote, fit within a restricted size range, and live in the U.K, Europe, or the US.
Besides the exorbitant prices, Philo’s new direction sees her distancing away from the conventional fashion calendar. Operating on her own terms, Philo has created her version of what a collection is: a series of “edits” labeled A1 to A3, released in small quantities from now till December 2024. Her model of producing less to strike a balance between production and demand, could partially explain why Philo is starting out with no less than four-figures per piece. Still, the barriers to accessibility and lack of diversity that the brand maintains potentially alienates even the most devoted Philophile.
Images courtesy of phoebephilo.com
When fashion’s landscape has many similar designs that are more affordable, Philo’s return begs the question as to whether she’s bringing something new to the table. In today’s climate, campaign visuals that bare aging skin is not a radical proposition. Nonetheless, it's a necessary message from a woman designer in an androcentric field. How Philo builds a new world that is distinctive from her contemporaries and earlier work will determine where the brand goes next. Thanks to Philo’s cult following and aesthetic sensibilities, her brand does have the potential to push the limits of minimalist fashion today. Taking a deeper look at what contemporary women need now could also lead to a breakthrough for her.
But if old habits die hard, Philo’s brand could become an echo chamber of references to a past that does not speak to the present. Legions of Philophiles have already found Philo’s essence in The Row, Loewe, Khaite and countless others who have mastered the tricks of the trade. It is likely sentimentality and loyalty that are enticing them back to Philo now, but these are temporary forces of attraction. Perhaps, Philophiles are better off collecting souvenirs of Philo’s heyday. Or, investing in designers who are revolutionising her spirit. Maybe Philo's protégés will reign supreme when the waft of nostalgia fades.
This article was originally edited and published in a+ Singapore’s December 2023 issue.
Images courtesy of phoebephilo.com
